08. It's All In The Delivery.
08. It's All In The Delivery.
Vogue World plus a skincare ingredient list cheat sheet, ftw.
Skincare delivery systems are pivotal in determining product efficacy. But with consumers bombarded with choices, do we really understand what that means? This article breaks down what skincare delivery systems actually are and their impact on the effectiveness of skincare products.
Last Sunday answered everyone’s question: wtf is Vogue World Paris? All I’ll say is if this sports x fashion x beauty mashup event wasn’t proof enough that athleisure is having a capitalized M moment, I don’t know what is. Here are the major beauty highlights and trends to emerge from the event.
What’s a Delivery System?
Our skin’s main goal is to protect us from external threats. It ensures environmental factors like germs, bacteria, pollutants, and diseases don’t have VIP access to our internal pathways. But what happens when we do want things to penetrate this barrier? That’s when we call on a little extra help from science.
Skincare delivery systems refer to the methods or technologies used to transport active ingredients from the product into the skin. The goal is to make sure that these ingredients penetrate the skin at the right depth and at the right time to achieve maximum efficacy. All the best ingredients in the world won’t matter if the method of delivery is not stable or doesn't penetrate through the outer skin layer.
This is a big topic in the DIY skincare debate: the banana vs Botox dilemma. I’m the first to admit that fruit enzymes, from the source antioxidants, and essential oils are all amazing tools for your skincare arsenal, and preventative skincare will always start with a balanced and healthy diet. However, homemade remedies typically do not penetrate the skin's deeper layers due to their molecular structure. This limits their topical ability to address more profound skin concerns like already visible wrinkles, deep hyperpigmentation, and major loss of elasticity. Therefore, while DIY skincare can complement a routine and offer immediate superficial benefits like hydration, it is unlikely to achieve the long-term, transformative results that scientifically formulated products and technologies can provide. Think about this more as a yes-and rather than an either-or.
Types of Skincare Delivery Systems
A list of definitions to help when picking the right products.
Emulsions: These are mixtures of water and oil stabilized by emulsifiers. Emulsions can vary in consistency from lightweight lotions to rich creams. They are effective for hydrating and moisturizing the skin by forming a barrier that locks in moisture.
Liposomes: These microscopic vesicles have a phospholipid bilayer that can encapsulate active ingredients, protecting them from degradation. Liposomes can merge with the skin’s lipid barrier, releasing their contents into the deeper layers of the skin, enhancing penetration and effectiveness.
Microspheres: Similar to liposomes, microspheres are tiny, biodegradable beads that encapsulate active ingredients. They provide controlled release, ensuring a steady supply of active compounds over time, which can enhance long-term potency.
Nanotechnology: This cutting-edge technology involves nano-sized particles that can penetrate the skin more deeply than larger molecules. Nanotechnology can improve the stability and bioavailability of active ingredients, making products more effective.
Hydrogel Systems: Hydrogels are three-dimensional networks of hydrophilic polymers that can hold large amounts of water. They provide a cooling effect, making them ideal for soothing irritated skin. Hydrogels can also act as carriers for active ingredients, enhancing their delivery.
Transdermal Patches: These patches adhere to the skin, delivering active ingredients over an extended period. Transdermal patches are particularly effective for ingredients that need to be delivered at a controlled rate, ensuring consistent efficacy.
Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions: These are clear, stable mixtures of oil, water, and surfactants that have very small droplet sizes. They can enhance the penetration of active ingredients and improve the stability and solubility of hydrophobic compounds.
Impact on Power
The choice of delivery system can significantly impact the success rate of skincare products. Here’s how:
Enhanced Penetration: Advanced delivery systems like liposomes, microspheres, and nanotechnology allow active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin, targeting the layers where they are most needed.
Controlled Release: Systems such as microspheres and transdermal patches provide a controlled release of active ingredients, ensuring a sustained effect over time. This can lead to better results with prolonged use.
Stability and Bioavailability: Advanced delivery systems enhance active ingredients' stability and bioavailability by protecting them from degradation. This means that the ingredients remain effective for a longer period of time.
Targeted Action: Certain delivery systems can direct active ingredients to specific areas of the skin, improving the precision and effectiveness of the treatment.
Technology Tools and Gadgets
As technology advances, we can expect to see even more sophisticated delivery systems in skincare.
Red light therapy utilizes specific wavelengths of light to penetrate the skin, promoting collagen production and enhancing the absorption of active ingredients.
Ultrasound technology employs high-frequency sound waves to create micro-vibrations, which improve skin permeability and facilitate deeper penetration of serums and creams. When used with microdermabrasion, the absorption rate of topicals may increase.
Radio frequency (RF) treatments use controlled energy to heat the deeper layers of the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production while enhancing the delivery of topical products.
Microneedling, involving the use of fine needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, not only boosts collagen but also allows for more effective absorption of active ingredients by creating direct channels into the deeper skin layers. These technological advancements have significantly improved the effectiveness of skincare regimens, offering targeted and efficient solutions for various skin concerns.
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Tatcha Dewy Skin Face Mist $49; This milky emulsion contains moisturizers and humectants, leaving skin rehydrated, and does not contain high levels of alcohol and fragrance, which can dry out the skin.
FaceGym Hydrating Active Roller With Hyaluronic Acid $43; We’ve all heard about the hazards of microneedling at home due to the difficulties of sanitization. This tool is different in that it has disposable, single-use heads with 3,000 needles made from ingredients themselves that quickly dissolve on contact.
FaceGym Cheat Mask $87; Formulated with a tri-acid complex containing lactic acid, succinic acid and Asiatic acid, this mask helps to exfoliate the skin to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness, blemishes and fine lines. It also contains liposomal melatonin, microalgae and prebiotic bioferment.
Ross J Barr Patch Pack $60; these biodegradable patches work through aroma therapy and transdermal placement on acupuncture points to help reduce sleeplessness, anxiety, and pain. Each formula in this set features different targeted botanicals and herbs that, when applied to a particular area, have multiple therapeutic effects.
Hanacure Nano Emulsion $100; This multitasking hydrator uses nanotechnology to quickly sink into the skin, making it appear instantly plumped and brightened. Packed with sodium hyaluronate, squalene, and peptides for supple, bouncy skin.
Dermay Derma Mask $249.95; Anyone who knows me knows I will never stop raving about this mask. I use it after applying actives to help them penetrate deeper, and I notice a difference when I don’t. It provides dual Infrared Light in combination with seven different color options, each specifically intended to produce quality improvements for various skin issues.
ZIIP Nanocurrent and Microcurrent Facial Toning Device $399; This handheld device uses nano and microcurrent technology to treat a range of skin concerns, including wrinkles, sagging skin, blemishes, pigmentation, and dull texture.
Rather opt for in-office treatments for LED therapy, microcurrent, and more? Try Ever/Body.
Well Theorem’s sister brand, Tiny Bodega, is LIVE. If you’re interested in Black, Indigenous, and POC-owned brands that make delicious allergen-friendly products, Tiny Bodega is worth visiting.
📌 Final Thoughts
Skincare delivery systems play a crucial role in determining the effectiveness of skincare products. By enhancing penetration, providing controlled release, and improving stability and bioavailability, these systems ensure that active ingredients work optimally to deliver visible results. As we’re inundated with endless choices, understanding and leveraging these advanced delivery technologies will only help you on your journey to find your personal skincare protocol.
Dig Deep. Stay Informed!
Until next time,
T.
Ps - This Substack is free, and I may receive commissions for purchases made through some linked and pinned products.