There's a new trend quietly bubbling, or maybe describing it as a loud boil is more accurate. The trend is fermentation. From probiotic-infused lotions to mushroom-derived actives, we’re seeing a new wave of products harnessing the power of biology to enhance our skin’s health. But what does that mean? And is it more than just marketing buzz?
I want to examine the science behind the trend, bust some myths, and highlight the brands on my radar. From the microbiome to Malassezin, we’ll explore whether these ingredients actually work and which ones are worth the investment.
WTF is Probiotic, Prebiotic, and Postbiotic?
The concept behind fermented skincare is to nurture your skin’s microbiome, that invisible ecosystem of bacteria living on your skin’s surface. The idea is simple: a balanced microbiome means healthier, more resilient skin. Enter probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics—each playing a unique role in supporting this delicate balance.
Probiotics are the living microorganisms that aim to repopulate your skin with good bacteria. Brands like Mother Science leverage probiotic strains, explicitly addressing common concerns like acne and inflammation. Their formula, which includes Malassezin (a compound derived from the fungi Malassezia), claims to help restore balance and reduce irritation. Malassezia, while often seen as a cause of fungal acne, has a role in the skin’s ecosystem that, when controlled, can offer benefits.
Meanwhile, prebiotics serve as food for these beneficial bacteria, allowing them to thrive. Mindbodygreen's Postbiotic Body Lotion offers a sophisticated take, combining both pre- and postbiotics to support the microbiome and ensure a healthier skin barrier. The idea is to create an environment where good bacteria can flourish, preventing skin issues before they arise.
And let’s not forget postbiotics, the byproducts of probiotic activity. These compounds can have direct benefits, such as enhancing hydration or calming inflammation. Research is still catching up, but early studies suggest that these byproducts may be key to optimizing skin health by directly modulating its microbiome.
The Big Three: Bifida, Galactomyces, and Sake
Fermentation has been used in beauty rituals for centuries, but only recently has science begun to validate its skincare benefits. Fermented ingredients break down complex compounds into smaller, more bioavailable molecules, allowing them to penetrate deeper and deliver potent results.
One standout ingredient in this space is Bifida Ferment Lysate, found in products like Ma:nyo’s Bifida Biome Complex Ampoule. This fermented yeast extract is touted for its ability to strengthen the skin barrier, improve elasticity, and boost hydration—ideal for anyone combating aging or environmental damage.
Similarly, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, a byproduct of sake fermentation, has earned cult status for its brightening and anti-aging properties. Long hailed in Japan as a skincare staple, Galactomyces made its global debut through SK-II’s iconic Facial Treatment Essence. It’s known to reduce hyperpigmentation and smooth skin texture but at a prohibitive price point for many.
Enter Mixsoon Galatomyces Toner, the viral “SK-II dupe” dominating TikTok. This toner delivers similar results—hydration, brightening, and skin refinement—at a fraction of the price, proving that effective fermentation doesn’t need to break the bank.
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A Fungi-Fueled Skincare Revolution
Mushrooms are having a moment, not just in your salad or coffee. They’re emerging as skincare powerhouses thanks to their unique ability to adapt to stressful environments. From anti-inflammatory benefits to hydration, mushrooms are packed with bioactive compounds that can enhance your skin’s resilience.
Take tremella, often dubbed the “snow mushroom,” which rivals hyaluronic acid in its hydrating prowess. The molecules are smaller, meaning they can penetrate the skin more effectively, offering plump, hydrated results. Two on my radar right now are brands Mounti Lai and Hervibore, which have taken advantage of this ingredient in their toner and cleanser.
But the real buzz is around reishi, shiitake, and chaga mushrooms, which are rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show they can help calm irritated skin, fight oxidative stress, and even reduce fine lines over time. It’s no wonder brands like Youth to the People, and Dr. Weil for Origins are incorporating mushrooms into their formulations.
Do Fermented Skincare and Microbiome-Focused Products Actually Work?
Fact or fiction? With all the excitement around fermented ingredients and microbiome-focused products, it's easy to fall prey to hype. So, let’s set the record straight.
➸ Fermented skincare is a miracle cure for aging.
Fermented ingredients are beneficial, but they're not magic. They may enhance the absorption of active ingredients and support the skin barrier, but their anti-aging effects will only be as good as the overall formula. Look for products that combine fermentation with proven actives, like niacinamide or retinol.
➸ Probiotics alone can fix all your skin problems.
Probiotics are just one piece of the puzzle. While they can help balance your microbiome, they’re most effective when combined with prebiotics and postbiotics to maintain that balance. Otherwise, their benefits may be short-lived.
➸ Mushrooms are only good for hydration.
While certain mushrooms, like tremella, excel at hydration, others offer a wide range of benefits. Reishi and Chaga, for example, are potent anti-inflammatories and antioxidants that can help with everything from calming redness to fighting free radicals. Don’t underestimate their power!
The fusion of fermented ingredients and microbiome science is more than a fleeting trend—it’s a forward-thinking approach to skincare that addresses the skin’s natural ecosystem. While the jury is still out on the long-term benefits of probiotic skincare, early science is promising. Mushrooms, on the other hand, are a safe bet, offering a versatile range of benefits from hydration to anti-aging.
Products Worth Exploring
➸ Mother Science Skin Renewal Set: Focusing on microbiome health, their science-backed formulations like Malassezin are pushing the envelope on treating acne and inflammation with probiotic innovation.
➸ Mount Lai Tremella Tonic Activating Essence Mist: Their Tremella Tonic Activating Essence Mist features the hydration-boosting power of snow mushrooms, providing an instant burst of moisture while helping to support the skin’s natural barrier.
➸ Herbivore Pink Cloud Creamy Jelly Cleanser: This cleanser has a gentle, pH-balanced formula that cleanses without stripping. It uses tremella mushroom and rosewater to hydrate and nourish skin while removing impurities.
➸ Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega Mushroom Relief Lotion: This lotion harnesses the calming benefits of reishi and other powerful mushrooms to reduce redness, soothe sensitive skin, and boost overall resilience.
➸ Ma:nyo Bifida Biome Ampoule Toner: Specializing in fermented ingredients, Ma:nyo’s Bifida Biome line is a top contender for anyone looking to improve skin elasticity and hydration with the power of yeast fermentation.
➸ Mixsoon Galactomyces Toner: This affordable SK-II dupe brings the brightening, smoothing benefits of Galactomyces ferment to the masses without the luxury price tag.
➸ Youth to the People All Day Hydration Set: Known for their adaptogen-rich formulas, their mushroom-infused products bring anti-inflammatory and antioxidant power to your daily routine.
This Substack is free, the recommendations are genuine, and I may receive a commission on purchases from some of the linked and pinned favorites above.